Wagyu Beef Reigns Supreme
Japan's Famous Kobe Beef Thrills US Market
Kobe Beef in Japan
Kobe beef is world renowned as superior, well marbled beef. It gets its name from the place in Japan where these pampered cattle produce the most divine beef, often called the "foie gras of beef."
- Like Kurobuta Pork, Kobe beef originates in Japan, in the North.
- The breed dates back to the 1800’s in Japan’s northern region. Hokkaido figures prominently in Kobe history.
- It was not until 1976 when the Japanese allowed their precious cattle to be sold for breeding here in the US. In typical Japanese fashion, the seller required the buyers to basically apprentice to him, learning the proper methods of raising Wagyu for three years before selling them the cattle.
A diet of grains and beer and regular massaging combine to make the exquisitely marbled, unctuous meat. True Kobe almost appears pink due to the marbling. Wagyu is a bit more red with less marbling than Kobe.
Kobe in New York
You've got to love good, snarky food writers. Frank Bruni (New York Times) is on a roll of late. You may have seen his piece on chefs' egos gone awry - ("You May Kiss the Chef's Napkin Ring")? The latest work of his to thrill me is his review of the new restaurant: "Kobe" - a (you guessed it) steakhouse in New York City. The article is worth a read, just to get a hit of the scathing descriptions of good intentions gone awry, including the thousands of swords dangling overhead.
An amuse bouche:
"If Akira Kurosawa hired the Marquis de Sade as an interior decorator, he might end up with a gloomy rec room like this. Will the last samurai to leave please turn on the lights?"
But let's get back to the beef. The restaurant in question draws its name from that part of Japan which has become synonymous with its beef. While he notes a few items worth the price, he generally gave the experience of eating there a bad review.
Kobe in Boston
Just thinking about Kobe beef reminded me that we here in Boston are told to expect yet another "upscale steakhouse." Here we've got Abe & Louie's, Smith & Wollensky's, Ruth's Chris, The Palm, Grill 23 and more. All these steakhouses have got me thinking - why?
I had a pang of panic that Boston might be retreating to its low culinary water mark when all one could find was meat and potatoes or broiled fish and potatoes. Has the world gotten so scary so that we can only tolerate safe, familiar food? How many debates can we have over whose hash browns are better?
The other reaction (to what, I can't say) is the new extreme sport of weird-eating. There's even a new show, the promo for which reminded me of the poor kid in grade school who would eat anything for a nickel and some attention. Now he's the next Food Network Star. Who knew?
- "Kobe" Cap steak is available at Grill 23;
- Fine butchers such as Savenor's and The Butcher Shop also carry Wagyu.
- Wagyu ranges in price (and quality) from low of $40/lb to $100/lb and can be even more expensive.
- Oishi on Washington Street has Kobe beef shumai on the menu. Worth every penny of the $10.00 price.
Kobe - Wagyu - What's the Difference?
While ruminating over ruminants, I thought I'd offer a few words on the world of Kobe beef:
- Kobe is a region of Japan that has for years produced beef with such superior marbling that it might just be the origin of the phrase “like buttah.”
- Wagyu is Kobe beef grown outside of Kobe. It is a superiour breed (actually there are several) with marbling exceeding the standards for USDA Prime.
- All Kobe is Wagyu but not all Wagyu is Kobe. Got it? This is why we can get Wagyu grown here in the US, not Kobe. (Think Champagne versus sparkling wine.)
- Wagyu is very well suited to a dish like Shabu-Shabu where the slightest swish through simmering broth is all you need to barely cook thinly shaved portions of meat.
- For an excellent primer see: Lobel's website and the "What is Wagyu" section, in particular.
- This beef contains much higher proportion of the desirable monounsaturated fats than other beef and can be included in even low-cholesterol diets.
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