Marron Glace - Traditional Holiday Treat
Chestnuts that Sustained Many Peasants Enjoys Gourmet Rennaissance
Oct 13, 2009 Jacqueline Church
Marron Glacé - Iced Chestnuts - a traditional holiday treat are making a comeback. Once a staple of European cuisine, valued by peasants and treasured by the wealthy, chestnuts have a place in history. If some new farmers have their way, chestnuts will have a bright future, as well.
Glacéed, Roasted, Pureed - Chestnuts can be Sweet or Savory
Chestnuts are one of the most nutritous and most versatile nuts. Due to their unique protein and carbohydrate structure this nut packs more nutrition and less fat than others. 100 gms of chestnuts contain less than 200 calories and only 10 g of fat, as compared to walnuts which pack over 600 calories and over 400 g of fat.
When wheat was unavailable during the Middle Ages, in many parts of Europe, chestnut flour was the available substitute. Breads and cakes were made with chestnut flour. If you couldn’t afford meat or had no animals to raise, you might have relied on the protein in chestnuts to survive.
Today, one’s delight in chestnuts, or disdain for them, might have more to do with your family history than your palate. If you were to the manor born, you might only associate them with the food fed to pigs, or tossed to the poor. If you were the poor recipients you might be glad to be past that era or you may have memories of cakes grandma made.
At some point in history, those of elevated status began enjoying chestnuts as treasured treat. Perhaps it was through trade that their reputation became burnished, buffed. Currently, chestnuts are enjoying a gourmet renaissance.
From Hoboken to Genoa and Back - "Tutti Castagni" All Chestnuts
The delightful "foodoir" a memoir that weaves family culinary history along with the author's story, Laura Schenone discovers chestnuts were vital to the survival of the people from whom her family descended. In tracing that history she returns to Lumarzo and meets an amazing woman who produces hand-signed jars of chestnuts in syrup, bags of smoked chestnut flour, marmalades, oils. She notes that the trees provided the wood for much of the houses and furniture. In the old days, before wheat was widely available, pasta was not a staple in Italy, but a luxury. Chestnut flour in gnocchi, chestnut in breads, cakes, chestnut porridges: "tutti castagni."
- Read The Lost Raviloli Recipes of Hoboken: A Search for Food and Family.
Chestnuts and Holiday Food Traditions
From stuffings to soups to puddings and desserts, chestnuts appear in many different holiday recipes. It’s quite likely that you’ve tasted dry or stale chestnuts, so if you’re losing interest, patience please. Marron glacé are a delicacy that will transport you. Make it a special treat at your holiday table. Before you balk at the price (they can be over $3.00 per piece) - appreciate that one does not eat these by the handful. Consider also that marron glacés take several days to make. Chestnuts must be removed from their porcupine-like carapace. Then the bitter close skin must be removed. Finally, the nut itself is soaked in a sugar syrup for several days. The resulting ethereal treat is rich without being cloying or heavy.
- Chestnuts are the only nuts to contain a significant amount of vitamin C. In 110 gms you'd get 67% of your USRDA!
- A story might be called “a chestnut” if it is old, well-worn tale.
- A fungal blight wiped out almost all the North American stock of chestnut trees, but a few farmers are reestablishing this crop.*
- The French and the Japanese share a love for the Mont Blanc: a dessert of chestnut cream and meringue.
- Jarred chestnuts that have already been peeled can be chopped and added to brussels sprouts or paired with green beans. Chestnuts add rich flavor and texture to stuffings.
*In another heartwarming return-to-the-land story, Russ Parsons introduces Harvey Correia. Formerly an auditor, Correia sees joy in growing a product that makes people happy. So happy, he's had to put limits on the number of pounds people can order. Says Correia: "I made more money working as an auditor, but I didn't make too many people happy." See, The Return of American Chestnut.
Where to Find Chestnuts
Terrific source for all things chestnut (all things gourmet): Earthy Delights. This site is a poor gourmet's downfall - incredible gourmet edibles from around the globe. Just imagine, for chestnut products alone, over a dozen offerings. Williams-Sonoma also carries jarred, peeled chestnuts.
Make someone happy this holiday season, bring home some chestnuts. Share a Marron Glacé. Ask your older friends and relatives about chestnuts they remember, chances are there's a chestnut of a story there, too.
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