Guanciale, only recently available in the US, and still not widely so, is worth seeking out. Unsmoked, air-cured pork jowl or cheek is unlike bacon or pancetta which one is told liberally to substitute for it. Although many a home cook fancies her Spaghetti Carbonara a passable representation, without guanciale, it is an imposter.
Bucatini all'Amatriciana and Spaghetti Carbonara are two classic dishes which begin with guanciale though many, many recipes simply call for bacon or pancetta.
What is True Guanciale?
While authenticity is dangerous to debate with an Italian, it's best done with a glass of wine, after dinner and with a little research under our belt. Here's a gourmet discovery made this week in the waning days of the year of the Pig. Pasta all'Amatriciana as described here may not be authentic but it's close and it's delicious. Several sources near and far were consulted, though I did not have actor friends to travel to Umbria with me as Florence Fabricant did.
First, about those cheeks. While bacon is made from pork belly, guanciale ("gwan-chi- ah-lay") is cut from the pork jowl. This fat has a different quality to it, melting easily into dishes. The added collagen in this cut makes sauces silky smooth. The meat is washed with wine and herbs, red or black pepper and air cured, not smoked, for 40 days.
Like culatello and jamon the unavailability of guanciale may be due in part to the FDAs backward application of modern science to artisanal salumieri and norcieri processes. (Why don't they focus on antifreeze in toothpaste?!)
Pilgrim's Progress - Guanciale in Boston
South End Formaggio, Lionette's Market are two places that carry guanciale in Boston. Lionette's carries local farm products and butchers them each week.
Elsewhere you can mail order it through this acclaimed artisanal farm that grazes the pigs on acorns (like Iberico pata negra.) Mail order from La Quercia. Or, Salumi Artisan Cured Meats.
Pasta all'Amatriciana
- 1/3 lb of guanciale, cut into small cubes
- 3/4 sliced onion
- 4 cloves garlic thinly sliced
- two smalllish carrots, thinly sliced
- 1 C of in-law's sundried tomatoes, rehydrated and drained*
- 1 TBSP fresh sage leaves*
- 2-3 TBSP fresh chopped Italian parsley
- 1/2 C Chianti Classico*
- 1 28 oz can of Muir Glen tomatoes (juice reserved, add as needed)
- Parmigiano reggiano/Pecorino Romano
Directions:
- Render the guanciale over medium heat, add olive oil as necessary to sweat the onion and carrot.
- As the vegetables soften, add garlic, drained tomatoes. Crush canned tomatoes by hand as you add them.
- Add wine if using.
- Add herbs, reserved tomato juice as needed.
S&P and grated cheese at end. Red pepper flakes may also be added to taste.
Traditionally this is served over bucatini. * items not found in traditional recipes, though research indicates these would not be far-fetched.
To read one food writer's experience curing his own click here.
To learn more about Italian food and food tours of Italy's many regions do visit: Delicious Italy.
To read about my journey to Amatriciana read the Naked Truth.
