Formerly a way of living for olive orchard farmers and passed from generation to generation, the quest to produce one's own version of grand cru olive oil is now a quest for celebrities. People like Sting and filmmaker Armando Manni are among those seeking to make their mark in the world of haute cuisine.
What's Grand Cru, Anyway?
Grand cru simply means "great growth" in French. With regards to gourmet food, it usually refers to the first crop, carefully picked at the height of its prime (not necessarily ripeness) - usually by hand in order to select the best of the best specimens. These specimens come from a common ancestor, grown under particular conditions, harvested in a specific method, and processed in a way that maintains the essence of the crop - in this case, olives (but also used for grape vineyards and cocoa).
Emergence of Olive Oil's Popularity in the West
With increasing attention put on naturally healthy diets, such as the Mediterranean Diet, and olive oil's role in such diets, this greenish gold liquid began to fly off the market shelves. Cooking oil shelves went from carrying one brand of 8 ounce olive oils to several shelves dedicated just to various olive oils from 8 ounces to huge gallon tins.
The questions arose: What's the difference between extra-virgin and virgin olive oil? Which brand is best? How should it be stored? People vaguely knew that there was a health benefit in it, but not everyone understood just what that benefit was. New "butters" were being cut with olive oil and sold under brand names indicating cholesterol reducing benefits. Olive oil cooking sprays became available, claiming a healthier road to non-stick cooking.
Grand Cru Olive Oil: Liquid Gold
When restaurants began serving bruschetta (a crusty Italian bread) appetizers to be dipped in either plain olive oil or olive oil and herbs, people really started to notice that olive oil had a flavor - it wasn't a fatty bland taste. The idea of appreciating quality olive oil based on taste alone was born.
Olive oil is a juice - not a standard "oil". It is the juice of the olive. It stands to reason that the better the native tree/orchard, with regards to nutrients, geography, and the flavor that the surrounding terrain contributes to the resultant fruit, the better result.
Olive oil connoisseurs will describe the taste of olive oil much in the way that wine tasters describe wine. They speak of taste and aroma using terms such as: unctuous, herbaceous, grassy tones, hints of artichoke, peppery, balanced bitterness, etc.
There are international oil-tasting contests at which highly-coveted awards are bestowed to the best oils, such as Villa Magra, winning year after year of blind taste tests by the Grand Jury European.
S'ciappau Grand Cru of Paolo Cassini, is said to be made for straight out of the bottle consumption. It is noted as being noticeably peppery with a "smooth buttery texture that can only be savored with bread or salad".
Is Grand Cru Worth the Extra Buck? What do Health Studies Say?
With olive oils such as the highly acclaimed Villa Magra Grand Cru going for $78 a bottle, should anyone other than a gourmet cook or connoisseur even bother?
It might just be worth their while:
- Grand Cru Olive Oil, when stored properly can have a shelf life of 2 years, compared to a recommended (for health reasons) 6 month shelf life for regular market olive oils
- Grand Cru Olive Oil tends to have more flavor, so less of it can be used
- Grand Cru Olive Oil has higher concentrations of polyphenols (laboratory regulated)
- Grand Cru has high levels of oleic acid (also laboratory regulated)
- The higher quality and standards of Grand Cru (the best of extra virgins) puts it in the category referred to in a Spanish study showing that it cuts the risk of heart attack in half, by having the arteries expand and contract easier in response to changes in blood flow (when compared to regular olive oil, which has the antioxidant phenols filtered out). This is important news giving hope after the study by Dr. Robert Vogel documented in the Journal of the American College of Cardiology finding that olive oil (obviously not Gran Cru) significantly decreased blood flow to various parts of the body.
For Futher Readiing:
The Health Benefits of Olive Oil
History and Health Benefits of Olive Oil
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