Naming Chocolates: the Brands, the Lines, the Collection
Approached by Donna Toscana chocolates and asked to review their artisanal chocolates, research began. What is a Master Chocolatier? What are "Tuscan Style Chocolates"? Between the name Donna Toscana, Diane Pinder (the master chocolatier), Craig Shelton (the chef with whom she collaborates) and CocoaBee (another brand in her line of chocolates), things got confusing.
The Names and Origins
It turns out the name "Donna Toscana" pays homage to the chocolatier's late sister, Donna. Toscana, refers to the Tuscan origins of Pinder's training. Indeed, Diane Pinder, “Master Chocolatier” says of her last career and her first that they share one thing: her job was to make people happy. It’s just that people begin in a happier place in the current situation
One might think the transition from intensive care nurse to chocolatier is an odd one. Consider that both careers involve caregiving, of one sort or another. A good ICU nurse and the perfect bit of chocolate share this: both can smooth over frazzled nerves, calm, settle and make you feel genuinely cared for.
Pinder creates chocolates now, but hasn’t left her caregiving behind. Fisher House, a temporary residence near military bases for family members of those wounded in the war, receives $1.00 for every Fisher House bar she sells @ $1.50. This helps cover the cost of housing while a soldier is receiving medical care.
Culinary Chocolates in the Tuscan Style
The new line offered for review includes a set of six “culinary chocolates” they call “dessert in two bites.” Indeed, many of these artisan chocolates have a lot going on. The Tuscany Master class follows prerequisite Ecole Chocolate courses where Pinder studied chocolate molds, fabrication, the business side of becoming a choclatier.
In each confection one might find as many ingredients as would appear in a full blown, plated dessert. This is not always an advantage. Beautiful to look at and painstakingly executed, these will be enjoyed to a lesser or greater extent depending on the preferences of the recipient. Materials describe the "sensual journey" with terms such as "foreplay".
First up, Turkish Delight. This is a rose-scented marshmallow, with pistachio and cardamom providing contrast to the soft and sweet center. This was a great combination of flavors, perhaps too many in one bite. Imagine a sampler of rose scented marshmallows with sprinkles of pistachio or cardamom on alternating treats. Here, the flavorers were also enrobed in white chocolate and topped with a candy rose. That's a lot of "foreplay."
Second: Pillow Book. Named after the movie, this one aims to incorporate Asian flavors. Foam, green tea, wasabi, yuzu, Asian pear, white and milk chocolate. Not as calming as the name might suggest, nor as straight-ahead feisty.
Third: Tropical Sun. We are now beyond “foreplay” (as the Turkish Delight is referred to) and the exploring, rambling sensuality of the Pillow Book. Chocolate is now meant to be front and center. The swirl of green in the white chocolate shell surrounds mango marmalade with ground star anise, atop a layer of white chocolate with lemongrass. This is quite sweet, good for those wanting more.
New England Autumn is the fourth chocolate in this flight. This was the first of the six to satisfy a chocolate lover’s longing for deeper chocolate flavor. With an Indian Pudding center, apple jelly and maple syrup, it is Autumn in one bite, giving one an autumnal feeling. It’s one of the six candies where the flavors, and there are many, work together in a singular fashion.
Gateway to God is the fifth of the six, two-bite desserts. Dark chocolate is infused with the floral Szechuan pink peppercorn (which really isn’t pepper). Cinnamon and dragon eye fruit are other notes.
The sixth installment was by far the best of the bunch if you are interested in traditional chocolate combinations and flavors. Called the Classic Bonbon, this dark chocolate ganache has Armagnac, and caramel infused with Tahitian vanilla.
Donna Toscana Chocolates: The set of 6 retail for $30.00 and ship UPS. To order for Christmas call by December 15.
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